Numerous studies by the Asphalt Institute demonstrate the measurable benefits of preventive maintenance. Periodic Crack Sealing and Sealcoating will greatly extend the life of your pavement. With the skyrocketing costs of new asphalt, the case for maintenance has never been greater. Spend a little now – or a LOT later.

The first application of sealer on a new driveway should occur around one year after installation. This will allow some of the new oils to evaporate and promote good sealer adhesion. The very first application of sealer may only last one to two years as the new asphalt will soak in the first coat of sealer. Thereafter, we recommend sealing every two to three years.

No. While many manufacturers produce “sealcoat”, the process, standards and compounds used in the making of sealcoat vary greatly. We only choose industrial suppliers that produce and provide a warranty on the product and its composition. You can buy “sealcoat” locally, but it won’t last as long. But that’s only part of the story. Do you really want to haul all those heavy pails home, spill it on your clothes (or worse, the house) and then try and make it look nice with a $10 squeegee? Or would you rather have a professional assess your driveway, make the necessary and proper crack repairs and seal it with State-of-the-Art equipment and standardized procedures?

As with a Driveway, the first application of sealer on a new Parking Lot should occur around one year after installation. This will allow some of the new oils to evaporate and promote good sealer adhesion. Parking Lots with very heavy traffic will likely need sealing every year in the high traffic lanes. There are several schools of thought on how to address parking lot maintenance with respect to sealcoating. Some property owners insist on keeping the lot looking fresh each year and will order only one coat of sealer and fresh line striping. Manufacturers specifications call for two coats minimum, but we have seen excellent results for some customers using the annual one coat method. Many owners and property managers don’t budget for an annual service and often delay well beyond when the pavement really needs service. At that point the old sealer has completely worn off and there is no “base coat” of sealer to build upon (a little like paint – the second coat is easier and looks better). For some customers, we will recommend a third coat of sealer on the high traffic lanes. Ask our representative for their suggestions based upon your parking lot’s demands.

Not all sealcoat is created equally and certainly not all sealcoat companies are created equally. We are serious about our products, our service and our reputation in the community. If price is the only determining factor, Drive Pros may not be for you. We spend more time preparing the asphalt surface and cracks for sealing than the competition. And we’re fussy. Drive Pros employees each have specific orders to not cut corners and to do the job to our exact standards. With Drive Pros you really can get what you pay for. We knowingly entered a market flooded with competition and we knew the only way to stand out was to offer a premium product that outlasted and outperformed the competitors.

No. The pavement must lose some of its light oils and cure before you can properly sealcoat. Six months to one year is generally enough time to cure the asphalt to accept sealcoat. But don’t wait too long, either. Newly installed, unsealed asphalt can absorb oil, gas and other chemicals or be damaged by winter weather before it’s treated. Here’s an easy test to determine of your driveway is ready to be sealed – take a cup of water and spill it onto the pavement. If it beads up and shows a little oily reflection, the pavement still needs to cure some more before sealcoat application.

With a new driveway sealed within six months to a year from installation, you should expect one to two years of protection from your first application. Subsequent sealcoat applications should last two to three years. If the driveway is 10 years old and was never sealed, you might only get one year from the first application, but two to three years from subsequent sealcoat applications. Additionally, variables such as water runoff, salt, sand, snowplowing and severe temperature swings will play a role in the longevity of your sealcoat. Anyone that promises five, six or seven years or more of coverage is simply making empty promises that you’ll have no way of enforcing. Also, while the sealer itself may last two to three years, cracks may surface which would trigger the need for treatment before the color has faded.

Yes. With the high cost of gas and labor, we can conserve time and money by avoiding travel time and pass along savings to you and your neighbours. Phone for more information. Neighborhood organizers get very special treatment!

All driveways have sealer hand-applied with a special squeegee broom near the home and hardscapes (patios, sidewalks, rock walls, etc.). Small driveways are usually done completely by hand. Larger driveways are normally spray applied in the open areas. Our crews are fully trained on all methods of application. For those driveways that have a spray application, we take great care to avoid overspray on home and hardscapes; however, we do allow for a slight “mustache” on the grass for uniform coverage to the edges of the asphalt. The product will not harm the grass and will be gone after one or two mowings. Additionally, while we feather in the sealer, there will be a slight difference in appearance at the transition point between hand application and spray areas. This will fade over time. Ask your representative for more details.

All parking lots have sealer hand-applied with a special squeegee broom near the buildings and hardscapes (patios, sidewalks, rock walls, etc.). Normally, two spray applications are then applied in the open areas with adequate drying time between coats. A third coat is strongly recommended for all very high traffic lanes.  Ask your representative for details.

Crack sealing is the single most important step you can take to protect your pavement. Cracks are a natural occurrence for most asphalt surfaces after a few years. Proper preparation is key to successful crack sealing. Cracks must be dry and clean for the hot rubber to adhere properly to the sidewalls of the cracks and form a tight bond to prevent water penetration. Once the crack is cleaned, we will apply a band of specially-formulated polymeric rubber at 350-400 degrees across the crack. This band of rubber is approximately three inches wide. While still hot, we then cascade black silica sand across the rubber – this prevents tacky pull up on hot days and improves sealer adhesion. The use of silica sand on parking lots and roads may be optional – ask your representative for more details. On residential driveways where traffic is minimal cold applied rubberized crack-filler is typically used. This product is less expensive and more practical for a homeowner.

The short answer is No. Sealcoat is not a “leveling agent”. The sealer will help fill in small voids and coat any imperfections, but the imperfections may still be visible. Spider cracks are very common and, short of infrared heating of the entire surface, there is nothing that can or should be done to eliminate the shallow surface flaws in your asphalt. Quite often, due to the deep, rich, black finish of a new sealcoat, the spider cracks will initially appear more noticeable.

We have several methods and techniques to address oil, gas or chemical stains on your asphalt. Heavy stains often change the molecular structure of the asphalt making it impossible to guarantee results. Typically, we will apply special oil spot primer. This primer is designed to mask and adhere to the stain and allow the sealer to then adhere to the primer. 

We ask that you not schedule any lawn services (fertilizing or mowing) for 48 hours prior to service and no fertilizing until 48 hours after (okay to mow 24 hours after). Please move all vehicles at least 20′ from any asphalt surfaces to allow access for service trucks and power cleaning. Turn off sprinklers in time for asphalt to dry before our arrival. Keep sprinklers off for 48 hours after service (often, sprinklers systems will leave streak marks on fresh sealer during the first few weeks – this should fade away). Keep vehicles off surface for 24 hours minimum. Foot traffic is usually OK after only a few hours. Remind all drivers to avoid turning car wheels unless car is in motion as this can lead to scuff marks.

Complete cure time for sealer takes up to 30 days. During this time, the surface is sensitive to staining, tire marks and streaking from irrigation systems/hose use. While somewhat unsightly, these imperfections should fade away over the next few weeks.

Yes and No. We ask that you leave the sign up for a few days after service as this is one of our best forms of marketing, usually if were back in the area we will pick up the sign, we record the phone numbers of all homes that we place signs. If we do not pick it up within a few days we ask that you hold onto it and we will contact you the next time were in your area to pick it up.

Most of our customers have their parking lots lined every year, bright attractive lines not only improve property appearance but ensure smooth traffic flow. Re-lining a parking lot is less expensive than the cost of a new layout.

It depends, there are various methods of increasing the number of parking spaces. If there are previous lines on your lot we will black them out prior to re-striping the new layout. If your lot is being sealed there will be no need to black out old lines as they will be covered by the sealer. We will measure and draw out an accurate layout of your lot to maximize available the  spacing. Extra space may be gained by using slanted lines, smaller spacing (to a limit), and the use of T parking. In some cases a combination of smaller width stalls and larger width stalls can be installed, this will increase the number of spacing  while still providing adequate space for large trucks.